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Alex Mustard: Misool Scenery

For me, Heaven on Earth, or perhaps more correctly Heaven Underwater is Raja Ampat. Deep in Indonesia, this extensive and remote archipelago of the western end of the island of New Guinea is a wonderland. I quickly realized that I couldn’t summarize it all in a single FULL FRAME, so I’ve restricted myself here to just one part of Raja Ampat – Misool, and one type of imagery – scenics. Raja is an outrageously diverse destination, both in terms of the marine life and the diving experiences and I accept that my narrow brief will miss the standout memories of the place for many of you. So apologies for the lack of delicate pygmies, photogenic jetties, queues of mantas, squashed schools of sweetlips, or hypnotic wobbegongs). But I am sure that Raja Ampat will remain a favored theme in future installments of FULL FRAME and you’ll get all that from others!

I first photographed Misool in 2006 when it was far less known. At the time we were the only divers in the whole area and one self-proclaimed Raja Ampat expert (of the time) even warning us we were wasting our time going! For me, it was love at first sight, and just like the truest passions, it has only grown over time. And I can back up my blossoming affections with hard science. For example, there are now more than 25 times more sharks on these reefs than when I first visited. Species we are used to witnessing being strangled from the oceans are multiplying here. There is no secret formula, just sound marine conservation. Misool Eco Resort has been at the core because there is way more to their name than marketing. The Resort founded and sustains a 300,000-acre marine protected area, employing a 15 strong team of local rangers, patrolling using a 5-boat fleet, and using radar surveillance to prevent fishing. And when we give nature a fair chance it thrives. Scientists measured a 250% average increase in the amount of fish inside the reserve over just a 6-year period. What is not to love?

Photographically, then, for me, the story of these reefs is not the simple beauty of a soft coral or the delicate and gaudy branches of a sea fan. These are reefs run wild, where corals that cling on in so many places around the world, seem to grow with the vigor of weeds from every nook and cranny. Above, below and on every side of them fish pack in and food chains play out. This is something I try and communicate when shooting wide angle, with the aim not just of producing pretty pictures, but images that convey marine life not just thriving, but running amok.

 A diver explores Boo Windows, with a red seafan (*Melithaea sp*.) and yellow crinoid. oo Windows, Boo Islands, Misool.
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A diver explores Boo Windows, with a red seafan (Melithaea sp.) and yellow crinoid. oo Windows, Boo Islands, Misool.

 Reef scene with orange soft corals (*Scleronephthya sp*.), pink and red soft corals (*Dendronephthya sp*.), and red sea fan (*Melithaea sp*.) with schooling silversides above.   Pelee Island, Misool.
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Reef scene with orange soft corals (Scleronephthya sp.), pink and red soft corals (Dendronephthya sp.), and red sea fan (Melithaea sp.) with schooling silversides above. Pelee Island, Misool.

Three pink anemonefish (*Amphiprion perideraion*) living in a purple skirted magnificent sea anemone (*Heteractis magnifica*) on a coral reef, below a small island. Misool.
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Three pink anemonefish (Amphiprion perideraion) living in a purple skirted magnificent sea anemone (Heteractis magnifica) on a coral reef, below a small island. Misool.

A red sea fan (*Melithaea sp*.) growing beneath the overhang of an island. Andiamo, Daram Islands, Misool.
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A red sea fan (Melithaea sp.) growing beneath the overhang of an island. Andiamo, Daram Islands, Misool.

A reef scene with a  giant barrel sponge (*Xestospongia testudinaria*) coral grouper (*Cephalopholis miniata*) beneath schooling silversides (*Atherinidae*). Pelee Islands, Misool.
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A reef scene with a giant barrel sponge (Xestospongia testudinaria) coral grouper (Cephalopholis miniata) beneath schooling silversides (Atherinidae). Pelee Islands, Misool.

Schooling fish throng above a coral reef. Four Kings, Misool.
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Schooling fish throng above a coral reef. Four Kings, Misool.

Hard coral reef exposed by a low spring tide in front of an island with a man (Bernd Meier) exploring. Yillet Island, Misool.
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Hard coral reef exposed by a low spring tide in front of an island with a man (Bernd Meier) exploring. Yillet Island, Misool.

A split-level image of a hard coral garden flourishing in the shallow water below Misool Eco Resort. Misool
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A split-level image of a hard coral garden flourishing in the shallow water below Misool Eco Resort. Misool

A huge female reef manta (*Mobula alfredi*) swims close to a coral reef, while cleaner wrasse (bluestreak cleaner wrasse: *Labroides dimidiatus*), tiny by comparison, pick parasites from her lips. Misool, Raja Ampat.
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A huge female reef manta (Mobula alfredi) swims close to a coral reef, while cleaner wrasse (bluestreak cleaner wrasse: Labroides dimidiatus), tiny by comparison, pick parasites from her lips. Misool, Raja Ampat.

A colorful seafan (*Melithaea sp*.) grows below an overhang in the shade of sunbeams. Daram Islands, Misool.
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A colorful seafan (Melithaea sp.) grows below an overhang in the shade of sunbeams. Daram Islands, Misool.

A shoal of coral demoiselle (*Neopomacentrus violascens*) throng around a colorful seafan (*Melithaea sp*.) on a coral reef. Two Tree Rock, Balbulol, Misool.
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A shoal of coral demoiselle (Neopomacentrus violascens) throng around a colorful seafan (Melithaea sp.) on a coral reef. Two Tree Rock, Balbulol, Misool.

A purple knotted seafan (*Muricella sp*.) and a pink sea fan (*Melithaea sp*.) on a coral reef wall beneath schooling fusiliers (*Caesio sp*.). Nudi Rock, Fiabacet Islands, Misool.
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A purple knotted seafan (Muricella sp.) and a pink sea fan (Melithaea sp.) on a coral reef wall beneath schooling fusiliers (Caesio sp.). Nudi Rock, Fiabacet Islands, Misool.

A split level photo of mangrove scenery, with hard corals (including *Goniopora sp*.; *Heliopora sp*.; *Porites sp*.) growing below mangrove trees (red mangrove tree: *Rhizophora mangle*). Nampale Islands, Misool.
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A split level photo of mangrove scenery, with hard corals (including Goniopora sp.; Heliopora sp.; Porites sp.) growing below mangrove trees (red mangrove tree: Rhizophora mangle). Nampale Islands, Misool.

Red soft corals (*Dendronephthya sp*.) grow attached to the root of a mangrove tree, beneath the canopy of a mangrove forest. Nampele Islands, Misool.
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Red soft corals (Dendronephthya sp.) grow attached to the root of a mangrove tree, beneath the canopy of a mangrove forest. Nampele Islands, Misool.

A streaming school of bigeye snappers (*Lutjanus lutjanus*) swims across a reef filled with fish. Andiamo, Daram Islands, Misool.
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A streaming school of bigeye snappers (Lutjanus lutjanus) swims across a reef filled with fish. Andiamo, Daram Islands, Misool.

Schools of baitfish (including cardinalfish: *Apogon spp*., silversides: *Atherinidae*) mass on a coral reef, with giant barrel sponge (*Xestospongia sp*.) and predatory coral grouper (*Cephalopholis miniata*). Misool, Raja Ampat.
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Schools of baitfish (including cardinalfish: Apogon spp., silversides: Atherinidae) mass on a coral reef, with giant barrel sponge (Xestospongia sp.) and predatory coral grouper (Cephalopholis miniata). Misool, Raja Ampat.

A colorful coral reef, a school of glassfish (cardinalfish: *Apogon spp*.) surround a coral head with sponges, soft corals, sea fans, and sea squirts. Misool, Raja Ampat.
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A colorful coral reef, a school of glassfish (cardinalfish: Apogon spp.) surround a coral head with sponges, soft corals, sea fans, and sea squirts. Misool, Raja Ampat.

A reef scene with an orange elephant ear sponge (*Lanthella basta*) and red sea whip (*Ellisella sp*.) with schooling silversides above.  Pelee Island, Misool.
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A reef scene with an orange elephant ear sponge (Lanthella basta) and red sea whip (Ellisella sp.) with schooling silversides above. Pelee Island, Misool.

A school of glassfish (*Apogon sp*.) sweep in front of orange soft corals (Scleronephthya sp.) on a coral reef. Misool.
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A school of glassfish (Apogon sp.) sweep in front of orange soft corals (Scleronephthya sp.) on a coral reef. Misool.