I moved this from the 105 topic

Here is some basic info !

Fuji S2 in a Aquatica housing

I used a 105 mm plus a Kenko 3X ( 300 Pro) teleconverter. The Aquatica extension ring designed for the 200 mm micro is perfect for this lens/converter combination.

Due to the substantial light loss using the 3x, I set the camera to 200 asa and bracketed between f11 and f16. Using dual SB-105 strobes in TTL mode most shots were about 1 stop underexposed regardless of the f stop used, in the future when I have a couple of hours to do the dive I will add some flash compensation to the bracketing routine.

As usual everything on the camera and lens is set to manual. This will result in a lot of out of focus shots BUT the camera fires when I want it to. My time was limited on this first dive therefore I tended to rush the shots which reduced the "keeper" rate considerably compared to past attempts using a film set up.

I have a Ike PCA mounted on top of the housing using a dovetail ball adapter and a Ultralite universal light saddle joined by a single clamp. The narrow beam makes it much easier to aim the camera before looking through the finder. The resulting image in the finder was reasonably bright and allowed me to determine focus. The S2 viewfinder did make it a bit more challenging but it was manageable.

DOF is nil, therefore timing plays a major role in getting sharp images. Focus is achieved by moving the entire rig and then trying fire the shutter as the subject comes into focus. If you wait to see a sharp image in the finder BEFORE pressing the shutter the shot will most likely be out of focus due to the human delay factor. A tripod would be great but quite impractical due to the location of the subjects.

Anyway, I have attached one image. These are Dusky Anemone eggs. The uncropped image required a +1.0 exposure adjustment in the raw converter and has has a bit of PS sharpening via the unsharp mask control, otherwise no other adjustments have been made.

I hope to push to magnification to 7:1~10:1 befor I go back to icy Japan in March

KIndest Regards

Chris

Very cool. I made the mistake of shooting f32 last time I tried to do supermacro. It wasn't sharp. Next time, I'll have to experiment to find the sharpest aperture with the rig.

How sharp is the original photo? Can you post a 100% crop? (if you don't mind)

Chris: Now I know why they call you macroman! I have shot the same shot as you before - but I confess, it was in my aquarium! :-)

Cheers
James

here is the shot produced from the raw converter using only the camera settings

Sorry, Eric, what do you mean by 100% crop? This image is uncropped

regarding aperture, I have found that for this type of subject, f8~f16 produce sharper images. on 10:1 f8 produced the best results using something called film. :wink:

Even though I could get mor DOF, I never use f32 or f22 due to the excessive loss of sharpness.

Now back to checking the blow dryer pointed at my strobe. Don't ask :roll:

Chris

Oh, sorry. I mean a 100% view of the image. For example, a 600x400 or so "crop" of the original file at full size. It can give an idea of how sharp the image will be at larger sizes.

Of course, looking at a 100% view of an image is apparently is starting to break down with the availability of higher-resolution cameras. For example, people have been claiming high quality prints from the new 8MP consumer cameras, even though when viewed at 100% the images are extremely noisy.

Eric

I sent you a larger higher quality version via your website email address.

let me know if you got it.

in the next week or so I plan to double the magnification if I have enough port extensions to do it :shock:

may go into deco at 30ft trying!

Chris

I really like that shot, Chris! Supermacro is something I had my first brush with at Wakatobi -- and I'm hooked! I managed to shoot some eggs, too, but I was unable to get very close because I only had my 1:1 setup attached.



(I have closer shots of the eggs, but I was unable to get close enough for it to be exciting, so I chose to get the fish in it, too. )

http://www.carlgoodier.com/pix4/200.jpg

( pic site down, but will be up again soon)

Interesting definately. I shoot 2x Macro quite alot using a 105mm Nikon and a Kenko 300 2x TC. Agreed, auto focus , forget about it ( need to lock the lens). I was interested in your f-stops. I tyically shoot at f38, sometimes f45 ( I use film, and am on Kodak VS100). I used to shoot at 11 and 16, but the net result was i got the commensal shrimp's eye in focus and thats all. At 38 to 45 I get amazing DOF, and generally at 38 on TTL I always get a 'perfect' exposure ( use 2x YS-90 strobes very very close to the subject, typically about 1 to 1.5 inches from the subject). It works very well for me. Have not posted yet the results from my last philippines trip, , but I have one shot of a shrimp which is about as good as i think i can get in terms of DOF. It is very sharp, and you can see the hairs on its front claws, and the focus goes all the way up its back almost to the tail ... will post it one day

p.s. 3x Macro.... must be a real bitch to focus. Guess you need no currents, no breathing, and most of all the reaction of sniper ! I used to shoot some guns, and to me hitting the bulls eye with a rifle is like shooting 2x macro......... patience, quite, control your breathing and squeeze the trigger gently.

Interesting, I was shooting 5.5/6:1 in Lembeh @ a fictional f45 - 54 recorded by the camera (Nikon) f22 in reality.
The DOF is pretty negligeable at those magnifications, but I had no problem using manual focus and just natural light with a 35mm view finder. Both the xenocrabs & Pygmy are pretty good and nicely lit with a single ys60 strobe.

thanks...... well, agreed not sure how it works internally, i know an infinity i think you get max F32 and when i focus at full 1:1 it says 54 . wether thats real of fictional ( I kinda understand it ) well, it dont really matter for me.

All I know is that...... i can pump up that little number in that little screen on the top right to 38 or 45, and the strobes will give full power ( max output). Secondly , it do see a very very big difference in the DOF. I used to shoot at full 1:1 at F16 ( which might be real F8, dont kow really ), and now I shoot at 45 or 54 using the 105, and i get nice sharp pics still ( or in otherword, the un-sharpness is not visible on the animal) . I i am on 2x macro, max fictional setting is 38 due to light loss ( i think ) I am very happy now cause now i get the animal in focus rather than just its eyes or claws

Like i said, i wish my scanner was not broken so I could post the commensal shrimp pic.

Real or fictional, it works and thats what counts

Yes, it is 'light-loss'not added DOF.

Here's the blown xenocrab head crop :shock:

Blown up, poor thing ! . . Dang terrorists these days......... jokes aside, i dont get your point ? Bear in mind I have been shooting 13 months now ! U might need some more verbatum for us thick ones

do you mean that the light disipates quickly with depth ( which it would at high F stops ) ? Generally, the subject has always had no problem with ligt loss as you go into depth, but focus........ GOD I wish my scanner worked........ a picture paints a thousand words. )

The xeno crab is just 3/4 of an inch long. The above is the result of blowing an odd 72dpi '550p image up to 2400 then cropping 15% of it and expanding to 550. Result 80:1 representation (ish)
'Point' not sure there is one Apart from, if you have the resolution why bother?

The increased f-number is due to the bellows effect as you focus close. You can actually use that number for guide number calcs as it is the correct f-number.

Cheers
James

Nikon cameras factor in bellows effect when they display the f-stop. That helps you get the exposure right but doesn't help you understand what your physical aperture is. Canon does the opposite. With digital, I'm not sure which is better. You can always fix the exposure if it's not right (Canon) but with Nikon you need to understand the bellows effect contribution. I don't think it matters much either way. When you get that close you need another stop of strobe but the strobes are typically closer and it all works itself out.

Now, what the actual DOF is with these odd f-stops like f/44 is an interesting exersise, but keep in mind that the physical aperture is the same as what f/22 would be at a further distance, so diffraction effects will not be as overwhelming as f/44 would suggest. As usual, I point you to this photo.net article. It explains bellows effect, effective apertures and DOF at high magnifications very well. Full frame rules.

Wow, I am very please to see that there are many other "macro masochists out there.

Eric, I love that shot you posted beautiful!. It provides a perfect size perspective of the eggs as well.

On my next dive, maybe today, I will try f22 and f32 (on the lens). Hopefully I can position the strobes close enough to properly light the eggs. this batch is located in a depression in the side of a coral head and is a pain to access and is in a area plagued by currents.

caveman, Yes supermacro is EXACTLY like long range rifle shooting. My father was a USMC marksman and he taught me well as I won many a competition when I was a kid.


shooting the eggs, small crabs, and commensal shrimp is child's play. Wire coral gobies! now that's a different story. now to go back and get these shots with the S2

Nice pics Chris, and Dr. Bellows sounds familiar to me I get the point that I can take a pics from a long distance, and everything will be in focus ( thought about that theory too ) and the can enalrge and crop what you want.

Maybe I am a dork, but I prefer to hone my skills rather doing extensive Photoshop adjustments later. I have actually dumped tons of pics which could of be auto leveled ( or manual ). Not every ones choice, but i find it a challenge to either DIR first time, or dump it ( yes, I am crazy I know). A crop is about as far as I will go, and only then when the pic is a rare shot and worthwhile holding on to,