I recently had the chance to fill a last minute spot on a trip to Isla Mujeres put together by award-winning videographer, wetpixel moderator (and all-around good guy) Shawn Heinrichs. I'm sure I'm not alone in having been drooling over the pics - from the cover of the current issue of Wetpixel, the trip report from Eric and Tony (http://wetpixel.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=34224), Nigel's POTW winner and two Honorable Mentions at Our World Underwater, it's clear that the sailfish of Isla Mujeres are the hot ticket these days.

Isla Mujeres is a small island off the coast of Mexico's Yucatan peninsula about a 30 minute ferry ride from Cancun. It's obviously very touristy, hosting (literally) boat loads of partying day-trippers from Cancun, but it's still not over the top. No whistles tweeting and guys pouring cheap tequila down your mouth and shaking your head if you know what I mean. Think a smaller version Cozumel maybe 25 years ago. And the "port" (really just a few docks) is kinda picturesque with lots of personalized pangas on the beach along with a dozen or so sport fishing boats lining the docks. The skies were overcast when we boarded one of those sport fishing boats, the "Lilly M" at 6 a.m.

Unfortunately, it had been stormy and windy for the last few days. We pounded out through the 5-6 ft swells under gray skies, the front clear plastic wind screen looking like the inside of a washing machine. After about an hour we decided to head back - too rough and too gray. There'd be no sailfish that day - not an auspicious beginning.

The wind continued to blow all night, but there were less clouds and the sea was somewhat calmer when we boarded the next morning. About an hour after leaving the dock, Capt Rogelio steered the boat towards a small group of birds working near the surface and pretty soon we were on our first bait ball. When I came up with this image on my screen, I knew we were in for some great stuff

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I had thought since the sailfish bring the bait balls pretty much to the surface that we'd be mostly snorkeling. You want to wear your snorkel for sure, but it turns out it's typically more like "scuba lite": they fit you with pony bottles and a small harness (no bc) and wearing a 3 mm wetsuit and 4-5 lbs, you're neutral at about 15 ft. And the Lilly M is a sport fishing boat - clean and well-kept, but there aren't a whole lot of accommodations made for divers. There's a 2 ft wide swim step and that's about it. There's none of this giant stride/back roll float on the surface while they hand me down my camera stuff. When they spot a bait ball, they speed over to check it out, you gear up and sit on the rail with your feet over the back on the swim step. As Capt. Rogelio backs the boat up, First Mate Juan hands you your camera and when you're as close to the action as possible, Rogelio yells "Go! Go! Go!" and you leap into the water with your rig and start swimming like hell towards the birds. Or the bait ball. Or the first sailfish you see. Anything to give you direction because the action moves fast - those poor little sardines are swimming for their lives!

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In addition to the constant action we had occasional sun, so some pretty good light, even if the water did have a lot of particulate. We followed that bait ball for almost 2 1/2 hours. Jump in, swim like hell, get picked up, get in front of the ball, jump back in, swim like hell, get picked up - repeat. I thought I was in pretty good shape and I got totally crushed. Even with the action going off and Rogelio urging me on with "Mas, Phillipe, mas!", I found myself panting out a reply in my crap spanish: "Cinco minuto, por favor, cinco minuto..." Still, we got some great images and earned our cervezas that night!

The next day the seas were calmer but the sky was cloudier. This time we had to search for our first bait ball. Eventually we found one and were able to stay on it for 30 minutes which gave us some more great action

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but after it was over there were no more fish to be found. We motored around for another hour and a half before calling it quits.

The next day it was dark. I mean DARK - heavy clouds threatened rain, but as luck would have it, we found some of the best water clarity yet. As Eric said in his post, you're always hoping for 3 elements to come together - fish, sun and clear water. So far we had the most important - fish - but were only able to manage getting 1 out of the other 2 at any time. Even with the dark skies, we found several bait balls and stayed on them for most of the morning and still came home with some good stuff

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Our last day, it was just Shawn and me on the boat - Bob had gotten enough footage for his project and left the day before and Michael was happy with his haul of images and video so stayed ashore with his wife and young daughter (go figure!). As we motored out, we had high hopes - the sun was coming through! We were on our first bait ball by 7:15 which only lasted 20 minutes or so. As we waited for more action to develop, the sun crept higher in the sky and it looked like it was going to stay clear. We started to see bird action all around us and jumped in on our next ball and hit the jackpot - as we jumped in an out trying to keep up with the action, there were more sailfish than we'd ever seen! "How many?" Rogelio asked. "Every sailfish in the ocean!" Shawn exclaimed with a big grin.

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By mid-morning, there were several bait balls around us and we hopped from one to the other. The sails were charging and slashing at the bait, picking off fish right and left

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As soon as the sailfish would finish off one we were on to the next. This went on all morning! Whenever the bait would slow down and stay in one place for a few moments, we'd take turns getting into the thick of it before the bait was off and running again

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Shawn at work

By 1:00 we were cooked. 5 straight hours! Even though the sun was still high in the sky and we could see pockets of birds around us, we just couldn't take any more. Shawn and I both passed out on the ride back to port and that night celebrated our amazing luck on our last day.

Special thanks to Shawn, Anthony and Kin at Keen M International, and Capt. Rogelio and Juan for perfect drops every time. I can't wait to go back!

Phil

More pics at http://gallery.me.com/philsokol#100206

What a great trip report and awesome pictures! I really like the one of the whole school of sailfish - thumbs up

Cheers
Karel

Great pics Phil...I'm jealous!

I have to go back next year to get some better pics....If you or anyone else reading is interested in going next year I would like to charter the Lilly M for a week or two....maybe we can put something together and have time to get in shape!

By the way, what lens did use primarily? 10-17 ?

Mike

What an amazing experience. I thought you told me that you were not going to be having too many more lavish holidays !! Or was it just too good to refuse. You certainly bagged some great shots there Phil. Love the one with the baitfish in its mouth.

All the best

Stew

Exellent images Phil!

I'd would have loved to see the look on your face when you stuck your mask under the water to see " every sailfish in the ocean" Just incredible partner! Outstanding images Phil.


Steve

Absolutely stunning.

Maybe i´m interested in a trip next year!

Do you have an idea, how much such a trip will cost?

Regards

Markus

Phil -- fantastic shots. I saw Shawn's videos -- incredible encounters! Did you happen to get stills of the bonito school tearing apart the bait ball?

Thanks for the compliments everyone! We were lucky - not just with the weather and the fish, but to have a great crew who helped us capitalize on the opportunity.

Mike - I'm trying to get there again next year. Yes, we have to start cardio training early! And you're correct, tokina 10-17 the whole time.
Stew - Nope, couldn't pass it up. Now I will have to do penance with the credit card gods
Eric - I wish! You're right - Shawn's video is incredible! That was the first day of the charter which I missed due to a travel snafu, so no bonito pics. All the more reason to go back

Thanks again!

Phil

Phil,
Stunning images and awesome report. I am already anxious to get backi! Boy we worked our butts off but was it worth it! Thanks for sharing.
shawn

That is cool. Just to have experience, let alone the pics.

Nice shots Phil.

Paul C

AWESOME!!!

Amazing pictures-really inspiring and Shawn's video is incredible too

How come this has just been started to be documented-is it a recent phenomena? Or have I just msissed the pictures of it before?

Thanks so much for sticking them on here!

Adam

WOW... think this trip has to shoot to the top of my "Bucket List"

Awesome images!! Like someone mentioned... just SEEING it would be phenominal.

Indeed! AWESOME shots

In fact Phil I have been looking at those amazing shots again and again - I am currently sticking pins in a photo of you from Alex's trip last year - feeling anything yet ????


Paul C

Oi! I thought that was just my rash acting up again!

Thanks again for all the compliments!

Phil

Yer - keep scratching.... just keep scratching....

Paul C

great images Phil!

When this trip is organized again.....please, someone send me a note. Outstanding photos. Now to get into shape for all that racing to the spot.
Steve

Wow!! Incredible!! What camera, lens, and housing were you using?

What charter company did you use?

Awesome images!

Just looked at your shots (finally, I know, I know....) - gorgeous. The third from last is my favorite - to be specific, I love the way the sailfish is facing more towards the camera, open mouth getting ready to grab that poor (tasty) sardine - the motion blur across his beak is just frickin' awesome.

I see........another year of getting my ass kicked by you every month at SDUPS, oh 2009 Novice Photographer of the Year. At least I have my 7D before you.....

oh - and you are always welcome to go for a run (aka verbal abuse session) with us - see you soon!

Great Images and a really exciting account of the trip, thanks for sharing.