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Full Version: Tulamben, Bali and Wakatobi, May-June 2009 trip report
Wetpixel :: Underwater Photography Forums > The Galley > Crazy Dive Stories and Trip Reports
vetdiver
Just back from my first trip to Indonesia (Tulamben, Bali and Wakatobi Resort) – before I start, I’ll say that the only other trip I’ve done to the Indopacific was to the Solomon Islands aboard the Bilikiki – this was in 2006, when I was still mooching off my husband's point-and-shoot and had only just begun to appreciate the macro world… I was REALLY looking forward to this trip since I now have a dSLR and adore macro! We booked in late 2007 when Wakatobi briefly offered a special (2007 pricing for a 2008 or 2009 trip), so it had been a long time coming!

We flew over from LAX (via Taipei) on Eva Air. FYI, no one ever weighed a carry-on, but they were very strict on checked baggage weights.

Stayed in Tulamben, Bali at the Mimpi Resort for our first 5 nights – this was nice enough and gave us access to several major dive sites, including the Liberty shipwreck – I saw the outside of some other adjacent resorts, and they all looked pretty similar from the exterior, though Mimpi had the nicest pool area from what I saw – other resorts are closer to the wreck, but Mimpi was closer to other dive sites that seemed not as crowded during the day - YMMV. You can certainly stay on the beach in the Tulamben area very inexpensively. We got in three solid dive days and one land tour day. The diving was nice, water was blissfully warm (mid-80’s), vis ranged, but let’s say that a bad day there is like a phenomenal day diving in SoCal – so no complaints here!! Some quick-changing and strong currents, though easily manageable. Very prolific pink hydroids in Tulamben – I got a nasty sting on day 1 when the current changed unexpectedly (I had been hovering next to a large hydroid that extended quite far from the structure of the wreck) and had a pretty severe allergic reaction – apparently, this is not unheard of – a guy at Wakatobi actually experienced swelling of his throat and tongue after a pink hydroid sting, requiring an Epi-pen!!! Neat critters in Bali, during the one day I shot macro there, I saw a yellow (female) blue ribbon eel, many male and some juvie blue ribbon eels, assorted nudis/blennies/gobies, bubble coral shrimp, cleaner shrimp, orangutan crabs, pygmy seahorses, and 3 ghost pipefish…other stuff escaping me….

During the first two Bali dive days, I took an individual underwater photo course concentrating on wide angle with Wetpixel mod Mike Veitch. This was booked quite some time ago when Mike was living in Bali – as most of you know, he is now managing/teaching at the NAD Lembeh resort, so I was very fortunate that he was still able to honor our appointment. This two day course was invaluable and (IMO) did and will hopefully continue to make a HUGE difference on my WA stuff. We did some theory in the am, then dove – my course included Mike, me, and my camera. Period. No other students, no other cameras - basically, we swam around, and he’d pick a subject and give me an “assignment.” I’d do the shots, then pass the camera to him, he’d review and make comments on his slate. I chose a few “offhand” subjects here or there, as well. We’d then offgas for a bit, then we’d meet back up for more theory and another dive. After dive 2, I’d load the images onto my computer, and he and I sat with a Bintang (or 3) and went though the raw images together. I am a little shy about showing off pictures – I will often not even bother with editing something (and certainly won’t show it to anyone) unless I REALLY like it, so it was NOT easy to do this, but it was very helpful and not quite as humiliating as I’d thought (admittedly, the Bintang helped wink.gif ) Mike was awesome – if any of you are ever in Lembeh, take a couple of days and go work with him – he was a great instructor and is a very fun/nice guy, to boot!

So – I know lots of people have reviewed Wakatobi resort, and I won’t go nuts doing so again. It was nicely done, great food, lovely bungalows, nice photo room, fab dive boats. They had a guy meet us at the Denpasar airport (pre-immigration) – we didn’t have to wait in any lines – there was no waiting for anything except our bags – I’d heard about this, but upon seeing the chaos at the airport, the value really sank in!! Even without the airport meet-and-greet, the service is really phenomenal – for example, one guest’s Canon 5D basically imploded during his land tour in Bali two days before we were set to fly to Wakatobi, and the Wakatobi Bali office manager found him a replacement camera in Java via a Craig’s List type of thing – they sent a rep to check out the potential purchase and seller, found everything to be OK – so the guest had his replacement awaiting him on our charter flight to Waka. Tough to beat that kind of service!!

As for the diving service itself - also quite nice, if a bit regimented - we did a lot of dives on the house reef. The DM assigned to our small dive group (and all the DM’s we dove with, a total of 4) were fantastic!! Once they saw that we were self-sufficient, we were given lots of freedom - they may have just had bigger fish to fry - there were a few people on our boat that kept them quite busy! I think that it’s worthwhile noting that I did not have any issues with taking photos at Waka, disputing a rumor I had heard a few months ago that likened the dive guides to “nazis” – the dive staff expected you to care about reef health and be mindful of your gear, hands, feet - when needed, I used a poker or a single finger to steady myself without comment from anyone. I only heard of one person getting (privately) scolded, and I didn’t dive with that person (or ever see them underwater) and thus can’t adequately comment on the situation.

Overall, I liked Wakatobi and felt that the service was really amazing – I would recommend a trip there – the diving was pretty, lush and lovely reefs and corals. Fish numbers were pretty low on all but a few dives. No big stuff except below 140 ft at ne site. Would I go back??? Not in the foreseeable future - the critter density was not quite what I had been hoping for, to be honest. I saw more nudibranchs in one day in Bali than I did the whole trip at Wakatobi, for instance - my trip to the Solomons possibly spoiled me for many other places in terms of numbers/variety of strange creature. That said, this is a fabulous land-based resort that has flawless service, great accommodations and pretty darned good food – it would be hard to beat in terms of resort quality, especially given the remote location – but there are lots of places on my list, and unless I win the lottery, I have to choose carefully!

One last note…after 10 days at Wakatobi, we headed back to Bali – we chose to stay one night in Bali before heading home, and we booked a hotel I’d read about somewhere – Travel and Leisure, maybe?? I found very little detailed info on it and just took a chance – it was called the Hotel Tugu, and it was in Canggu Beach. I cannot recommend this place highly enough!!!!!! This was a pricey hotel for Bali, though half the cost of the super-deluxe places in Jimbaran and Ubud – we splurged for the one night (included transport to/from the airport, btw), and it was worth every penny. If you are in Bali for a day or two and have a special occasion to celebrate, I have a hard time imagining that you could improve on this.

Thanks to everyone here who helped with advice and recommendations - and Mike? I'll be booking that trip to Lembeh as soon as my boss' back is turned!

Allison
Deep6
QUOTE (vetdiver @ Jun 17 2009, 10:27 AM) *
We flew over from LAX (via Taipei) on Eva Air. FYI, no one ever weighed a carry-on, but they were very strict on checked baggage weights.


My heart soars like a hawk to remember Bali to borrow from an Old Lodge Skins quote (Little Big Man, 1970). Thanks for sharing and congrats for the w/a. Does EVA still offer the Evergreen upgrade for economy fares?
Bob
CompuDude
Great review, Allison. Sorry we were never able to hook up with you in Bali. What spots did you dive (in Bali) other than the Liberty Wreck?

Oh, and where are the photos? tongue.gif
vetdiver
Bob - I got a sizzling deal on premium economy fares - posted back in Jan about not forgetting to recheck fare prices - we wound up getting quite a bit of $ back when our fares dropped - half of what we'd originally paid, in fact!! Now, en route over, they were offering upgrades for $250 pp regardless of Evergreen club membership status, but the flight was only half full - I saw people in economy with 3 seats to themseves, those bastards!! On the way back, no deals available that I saw, but they were chock-a-block... We liked Eva - if they have similar pricing/times, I'll be using them next year for my Banda trip.

Kalani - dove the dropoff, the silt/crap/rocks in front of mimpi (TONS of nudis there around the rocks, as I'd heard from Ali) and over towards the dropoff, Alameda (think that's the name) around the corner, and the wreck - I was having some skin bends issues in Bali, likely associated with the stupid allergic reaction I was having to my hand, so I kept it to a dull roar. Once the swelling went down (not until Waka), I was back to my regular 4+ dives a day...

r.e. the pictures - you're KILLING me!!! Did I not just say I am funny about that????? Plus, I put a link on facebook, where I believe we are befriended - was gonna take it off soon actually.

Fine. I'll put a link here: http://vitskypenfounduw.smugmug.com/galler...563665492_zwxPS -

must go and take some of the pics out v quickly.....yikes....I do appreciate comments (even brutal ones) so feel free.

Wanna skip work and dive the Yukon x2 on friday? biggrin.gif I mean, I'm comping out work time to study from home....
philsokol
Outstanding review, Allison! Your comments are spot on, esp regarding Crispin, Wakatobi's Man-in-Bali and the over-all service of the resort.

Having been privy to the pics, you should be proud to post them - they're great!!!

Phil
CompuDude
QUOTE (vetdiver @ Jun 17 2009, 10:25 AM) *
Kalani - dove the dropoff, the silt/crap/rocks in front of mimpi (TONS of nudis there around the rocks, as I'd heard from Ali) and over towards the dropoff, Alameda (think that's the name) around the corner, and the wreck - I was having some skin bends issues in Bali, likely associated with the stupid allergic reaction I was having to my hand, so I kept it to a dull roar. Once the swelling went down (not until Waka), I was back to my regular 4+ dives a day...

r.e. the pictures - you're KILLING me!!! Did I not just say I am funny about that????? Plus, I put a link on facebook, where I believe we are befriended - was gonna take it off soon actually.

Fine. I'll put a link here: http://vitskypenfounduw.smugmug.com/galler...563665492_zwxPS -

must go and take some of the pics out v quickly.....yikes....I do appreciate comments (even brutal ones) so feel free.

Wanna skip work and dive the Yukon x2 on friday? biggrin.gif I mean, I'm comping out work time to study from home....

Wow, just found Mimpi on a map... you were right next door to us (at Paradise)!
The site right in front of our resorts is called "Coral Gardens" by most dive ops... it's where I found and shot a bumblebee shrimp on one of our night dives.

Great shots. No pygmy seahorses, ornate ghosts pipefish, and hairy squat lobsters? It seems like that's 90% of what our group shot! LOL

No Yukon trips during the week for me... I have to behave for a little while and let my finances recover from the Bali trip!
vetdiver
QUOTE (CompuDude @ Jun 17 2009, 02:48 PM) *
Wow, just found Mimpi on a map... you were right next door to us (at Paradise)!
The site right in front of our resorts is called "Coral Gardens" by most dive ops... it's where I found and shot a bumblebee shrimp on one of our night dives.

Great shots. No pygmy seahorses, ornate ghosts pipefish, and hairy squat lobsters? It seems like that's 90% of what our group shot! LOL

No Yukon trips during the week for me... I have to behave for a little while and let my finances recover from the Bali trip!


I was talking about a bit farther south, more around the riverbed - in between the coral and the dropoff - lots of stuff there in the rocks!!

Haha - I did shoot both OGP's and squat lobsters, but I only edited the shots I liked the best - probably will not even bother with anything else with my studies ramping back up!! I did not shoot any pygmies at all, though I saw quite a few.

Well, you know, if you get a touch of that SoCal wreck-divin' flu, you always know who to call for a ditch-work-and-dive!!! I can always study before I go to the boat. smile.gif
MikeVeitch
great review! thanks for the kudos biggrin.gif

Compudude... I was at Paradise..
CompuDude
QUOTE (MikeVeitch @ Jun 17 2009, 05:12 PM) *
great review! thanks for the kudos biggrin.gif

Compudude... I was at Paradise..

Wow, I really wish there had been time to take a class, too! (Allison and I sent you emails, but I figured you didn't have time since we had no response)
MikeVeitch
thats interesting, i replied to Scott about not having enough time to do so..

Now you just need to come to Lembeh instead biggrin.gif
CompuDude
QUOTE (MikeVeitch @ Jun 17 2009, 05:54 PM) *
thats interesting, i replied to Scott about not having enough time to do so..

Now you just need to come to Lembeh instead biggrin.gif

Well, since you insist. LOL

(next on the list... of things to convince the wife to let me do!)
scott_nielsen
thanks for the report, it brought back so many fond memories of bali and wakatobi. I want to go back and do bali again and also lembeh...I couldn't see you pics, it required a password...thanks again. Scott
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