Anyone used the Ikelite 6 inch dome the the Canon 10-22 lens?

I currently have the Ikelite/Aquatica 8 inch dome for my Canon 10-22 lens. I'm thinking of getting the Ikelite 5503.50-- 6 inch dome for travel. I'm wondering if I'll get much vignetting with this lens and dome combination on a Canon EOS 20D.

If the vignetting is only visible and the extreme wide angle setting of the lens then I'll probably pick up the smaller dome to help minimize the bulk when flying.

Mike

The 6" dome does not cause any vignetting at any focal lengh.

See this review by James for a comparison between the two domes and the 10-22.

Mike,

No problems as William and others report. I use the #5503.50 all the time with my Canon 10-22mm lens.

When working VERY close, like 1-2' anything at the extreme edges of your framing when set to 10mm will exhibit some curvature. Even with Ikelite/Aquatica 8" dome port. Zooming to 12mm or more totally eliminates edge softness at f6.3 or smaller IMHO with 6" or 8" port.

See samples all taken with this lens and #5503.50 port at:

http://www.magic-filters.com/gallery/david/index.htm

Hope this helps

dhaas

Thank you both very much for the information

Mike

I took 10-22mm and 5503.50 dome to Palau. They seem too work well, with little if any vignetting when looking at shots taken in the natural environment.

Some shots at http://palau.devension.com/

there are some 60mm macro shots mixed in there, but it should be obvious to determine the 10-22mm shots. I used it with a 350D.

damien

David,

Nice Magic Filter shots. How did you mount the MF to the 10-22mm lense, and what setting did you take the shots with.

I added the Magic 77 to a UV filter, but did not get the best results in Palau after its first use. We had overcast days and deeper dives than I think the filter should have been used in.

I am just curious to know what you did I guess.

thanks, ds

Damien,

I literally laid the filter on the front and clamped it with an old 77mm filter ring. It even "floated" a bit as the lens was zoomed but worked! I am looking for a filter ring with clamp insert to make the filter stable in front of the lens with no additional filter glass.

I shot in less than 40' of water depth for the FLA Keys photos, and maybe to 50' on the Cayman Brac wreck.

I used Shutter Priority at ISO 400 most of the time. The camera would pick apertures between f5.6-9 depending on how much light was present. I'd take a photo zoomed in to 22mm of the sand at depth, hit the menu button to use that exact photo as the custom white balance reference and tapped the shutter release to be back ready to shoot.....About 1-2 seconds after practice.

I also used Matrix metering and dialed in -.3 - .6 underexposure. Then a bit of post processing brought out the colors....

You have to be real specific to shoot with the sun behind you....And shoot DOWN a bit, too, as Alex details on the Magic Filter web site.

Hope this helps!

dhaas

David,

Thanks for the help.

Your comments possibly explain a lot. I got some varying results, but the better ones were where the sun was behind, in 10m depths range. I use it in on some of the walls in Palau, which I think were cutting out a lot of light as well.

Thanks again. ds